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Sherpa Kami Rita reaches summit of Mount Everest for record 30th time and second this month

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Kathmandu, Nepal — Renowned Sherpa mountain guide Kami Rita completed the scaling of Mount Everest for a record 30th time Wednesday, his second climb this month to the top of the world.

The 54-year-old, known as “Everest Man,” reached the 29,032-foot summit at 7:49 a.m., according to Khim Lal Gautam, a government official at the base camp.

His first ascent of this year’s climbing season was on May 12, guiding foreign clients.

Nepal Everest
Veteran Sherpa guide Kami Rita, returning after scaling Mount Everest for the 28th time, arrives at the airport in Kathmandu, Nepal, on May 25, 2023.

Niranjan Shrestha / AP


After that 29th climb, he told Agence France-Presse he was “glad for the record, but records are eventually broken. I am more happy that my climbs help Nepal be recognized in the world.”

He also climbed Everest twice last year, setting the record for most climbs of the world’s highest mountain on the first and extending it less than a week later.

Climbers usually take several days to scale Everest and it’s very rare for them to do it more than once in a short time, the Reuters news agency notes.

His closest competitor for the most Everest climbs is fellow Sherpa guide Pasang Dawa, who has 27 successful ascents of the mountain.

Rita first climbed Everest in 1994 and has been making the trip nearly every year since. He’s one of many Sherpa guides whose expertise and skills are vital to the safety and success each year of foreign climbers who seek to stand on top of the mountain.

His father was among the first Sherpa guides. In addition to his Everest climbs, Kami Rita has scaled several other peaks that are among the world’s highest, including K2, Cho Oyu, Manaslu and Lhotse.

Nepal Everest
Veteran Sherpa guide Kami Rita, returning after scaling Mount Everest for the 28th time, arrives at the airport in Kathmandu, Nepal, May 25, 2023. 

Niranjan Shrestha / AP


Officials said more than 450 climbers have scaled Mount Everest from the Nepali side of the peak in the south this climbing season, which ends in a few days.

Nepalese authorities issued hundreds of climbing permits to foreign climbers this season, and at least as many local Sherpa guides were accompanying them.

Everest was first climbed in 1953 by New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Nepali Sherpa Tenzing Norgay.

Mountain climbing is a key tourist attraction in Nepal, which has eight of the world’s 14 highest peaks.

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